Wednesday, August 31, 2016

Dugi Rat, Croatia: 29 August 2016
Day 60


Outside morning, noon and night




Dugi Rat, Croatia: 28 August 2016
Day 59

We drove north to Split today.  We continued our search for a sail boat to rent.  We've asked in almost every decent sized marina we've seen.  It is all about power boats here so we headed to the big city Split.  And we struck out... again.

We had a scrumptious lunch that was all about squid -- black ink risotto with squid and fried calamari-- super yummy!  Justin really enjoyed his Leffe beer.  He said it was the best beer he'd had since he'd been in Croatia.  He tried the local brew Pan and quickly moved on to Ozujsko.  He left that behind shortly to settle on Karlovacko.  The Belgium Leffe was a nice treat for him. 

Back in Dugi Rat we ended our day at our favorite sandy beach for a quick plunge, a round or two of cribbage and a beverage for sunset.  Ain't life grand!

Dugi Rat, Croatia: 27 August 2016
Day 58

We started the day by Watching game highlights from the Green Bay - San Fransisco pre season face off.  Justin is trying to keep up with packer news and the political scene while I read my book and keep my head in the sand.

We had an early-ish start to go find a sail boat. We drove to Omis walked around the tourist section of town. Justin bought a pair of swimming goggles and we looked at some art work.  We were very tempted to buy an enhanced photo of a water colored blue fish.  Justin and I talked to the artist for a while, but finally settle at no.

While we were walking along the river we passed a local home with a small, well tended garden.  It that tiny plot we saw pomegranate, fig, olive and citrus trees as well as tomatoes, brussel sprouts, grapes, cabbage and dill.  What a cornucopia!    We have pomegranates and olives growing in our backyard at our AirBnB but they look rather sad and neglected. 


We stopped for lunch at our favorite spot, Most Caffe Grille.  It is a little dive along the road headed south.  They don't have a beach view but great fish! Dorado is the local fish of choice this time of the year.

The tourist population is significantly decreased from when we first arrived just 12 days ago.  Pisak and Mimice were among the communities we visited just south of Omis for our next visit.  We are looking for a beach removed from the road with a laid back feel.  Poluk is off of the road but doesn't really give you good beach access.
Drove down into one part of Mimice that was a dead end and then another that seemed ok so we stopped for dinner where Gemma met two Yorkies on the beach.  We still need to get down to Medici. 

 We had an early evening ... Why am I so tired today?

Dugi Rat, Croatia: 25 August 2016
Day 56

Justin and I went for a swim in the morning.  Ok, admittedly, "going for a swim" is a bit of a stretch in my case since the water is just darned cold.  Justin laughs at me and that's ok, because it is just too dang cold.  Gemma found a bush to lounge under while Justin and I got our vitamin D dosage for the day. 
We took a walk along the beach and ended up in the Centar portion on Dugi Rat.
Now we are looking for a place for Justin to get his hair cut.  We did find a place that is open from 8-12noon and 5-8pm so perhaps we will come back. 

Given that we are on vacation and we are of legal age, we did a bit of bar hopping this afternoon.  Justin has not been impressed with the local beers but he keeps giving it the college try.  I too keep trying whatever the house has as their white wine of choice with varying degrees of success. 

Justin prepared pasta for dinner and his famous feta-tomato salad.  There was a band that performed from about from 11am until just after 3am just like last week...aargh.

Dugi Rat, Croatia: 24 August 2016
Day 55

We went for a swim this morning before I went for a manicure and pedicure in the afternoon.  I headed out about an hour early fully expecting the 4 km drive to take about forty minutes.  That gave me time to pop into the Studenac grocery market for a few items.  Unlike previous trips, there was virtually no traffic.  We had heard that this was the end of tourist season and the change has been noticeable -- not profound, but noticeable.  This might increase our interest incoming back off season.

After I returned, we hung out on our beach, watched tv and had more watermelon and figs!  The figs are a different variety that those we have at home.  These are still green when ripe, sweet and delicious.  In Japan we got figs that were large and beautiful, but dry and mealy.  These are fabulous.  Yes, I confess, I've been known to nab a few from time to time when we are walking down the street.
Dugi Rat, Croatia: 23 August 2016
Day 54


Mouth of the Cetina River in Omis
I finally had an appointment for my hair.  Doonya, Stipe's wife, recommended her stylist in Omis and made an appointment for me.  We headed out mid-morning; Justin and Gemma hung out and explored a bit until I was finished.  Afterwards, we headed south to see where we would want to go when we come back.  The beach in Dugi Rat is quite close to the main road and the beach is stones.  We'd much prefer something a bit more removed and therefore quieter and a sandy beach.  The roads are tiny and steep and how we ever got out of there without me burning up the clutch in the car will remain a wonder.
Dugi Rat, Croatia: 22 August 2016
Day 53



 Today we drove south to Makarska.  The scenery along the way is simply spectacular.  Each beach view is better than the one before and the farther south we go the rocks seems to get more severe.  It was easy to see that there is simply no soil at all above the tree-line.  We are checking out several of these sea-side beaches for when re return.  In all of the towns, most of the roads are really steep and parking is extremely limited but when you get down to the beach, it was all worthwhile.  I thought I liked the looks of Brela until we got closer to see that it was just too crazy.  We still need to check on Krvavica and Mala Luka.

The inland route back from Makarska led us through an ecological preserve.  We wound our way down to the river and found the point where many of the rafting boats launch.  After a bit of exploring we headed back to the car.  We passed several stands when individuals were selling their local olive oils, wine and fruit.  We've passed on the oils and wines, but I can't pass the figs.  They are so juicy, so sweet and so good!


Dugi Rat, Croatia: 20 August 2016
Day 51

Thanks to the Kaiserslautern Administrators who gave me a generous retirement gift that I promised was earmarked for a boating experience, Justin and I rented an open 15' run-about with a center console and a Bimini and went out to explore today.  We thought about going around the island that we see off our shore in Dugi Rat so we headed that way.  After a bit where I even had my turn at the helm, we stopped for lunch at Stars Uljara, in the village of Povlja on the island of Brac.  When we asked the waitress the name of the island, she laughed.  She asked "you are here and you don't even know where?"  Yep, that about summed it up.  We had delicious fresh fish and Justin's favorite octopus salad.  We anchored off the island closer to home on a great sandy beach and went for a swim and short walk.  After a full afternoon
on the water we headed back and spent just a bit more time on the beach before heading back to our part of town.  Both of us like our new found beach area.  A bit more than half way between Dugi Rat and Omis, there seems to be a little more space, the tourist seem to be a bit more calm and sand!  We found this area yesterday when we were driving to Omis looking for a place for me to get my hair cut.  I needed a hair cut when we left Kaiserslautern and I really need it now.) Stipe and his wife tell us that usually the number of people on the beach has started to decline by this time in August but it seems to still be high this year.

We've eaten dinner outside every evening since we have been here and breakfast most mornings too.  The weather has been perfect -- highs in the 80's, lows around 70' with no rain.  We are watching the Olympics when we can.  It is interesting to see what the are showing here even though we can't understand the commentary, we've watched quite a bit of Croatian volleyball, field events and water polo.

I had a dream last night that they called to tell me I couldn't retire and that I had to come back to be the principal at Sullivans High School.  After I exclaimed that there IS NO Sullivans High School the whole thing went in circles.  Was that a dream or a nightmare?
 



Dugi Rat, Croatia: 18 August 2016
Day 49

We are having internet problems in our flat.  Stipe, our host, indicated he had a plan for a short-term remedy but we haven't seem much relief yet.
There was a band on the beach last night that played ALL night long.  Well, probably not all night, but about 2:15 I got up and turned on the AC thinking that would muffle the sound enough to sleep.  The were probably a pretty good band, but nothing is that good in the middle of the night. 


We drove south to Omis today.  Dugi Rat is located partway between Omis and Split.  The traffic was miserable just to get there.  Ok, maybe miserable, but more than we wanted to endure.  What can you expect on a two lane road right on the beach in the middle of summer?  We didn't find too much to write home about, but we did find a fruit stand when we got there and had some of the best watermelon I've had in a couple of years! We also found a place to rent a boat so we will keep that in mind for one day soon.
Dugi Rat, Croatia: 18 August 2016
Day 49

We are having internet problems in our flat.  Stipe, our host, indicated he had a plan for a short-term remedy but we haven't seem much relief yet.
There was a band on the beach last night that played ALL night long.  Well, probably not all night, but about 2:15 I got up and turned on the AC thinking that would muffle the sound enough to sleep.  The were probably a pretty good band, but nothing is that good in the middle of the night. 


We drove south to Omis today.  Dugi Rat is located partway between Omis and Split.  The traffic was miserable just to get there.  Ok, maybe miserable, but more than we wanted to endure.  What can you expect on a two lane road right on the beach in the middle of summer?  We didn't find too much to write home about, but we did find a fruit stand when we got there and had some of the best watermelon I've had in a couple of years! We also found a place to rent a boat so we will keep that in mind for one day soon.

Dugi Rat, Croatia: 17 August 2016
Day 48

We had a lazy morning today...ok, we had a lazy day.  We watched an old Roc Hudson movie ( he hadn't yet changed his name to Rock) and crushed candy.  We don't have reliable internet and that is a problem for us.  Our car has arrived in the states, HHG are in Green Bay, no word about our Texas HHG yet but I would imagine that will happen quite soon.

We went down to Poseidon for lunch and cribbage in the sun then on to the beach.   Based on recommendation from both Eileen and Loyane I started reading Ken Follett's Pillars of the Earth.  Based around the construction of a cathedral in the 12th century, this book, in tandem with my continuous reading of the Outlander series will keep me busy for a while.  I may not have time for current events and the circus we are calling an election.

Ice cream is the dessert of choice so we indulged after dinner.  A bit more Olympics on tv rounded out another day in paradise.



Dugi Rat, Croatia:  16 August 2016. Tuesday
Day 47

 
Our first morning in Croatia; I had dreamed of this and now it was truly a reality!  We met with Stipe so he could share some info on where to go and what to do before we headed down the street to Kraljevic Grill.  Stipe called ahead to let the owner know we were on our way.  He cordially prepared a breakfast of fried and scrambled eggs, a cold meat and cheese platter, bread, butter and jam, coffee and tea.  Delish!  (I would learn later that breakfast fare is not very typical at all in at least this part of Croatia.)

We roamed around our beach for a bit before returning to our AirBnB  to get settled.  Mid to late afternoon we headed to the beach.  I dipped my toe but it was too cold to go much farther.  Justin was brave enough and went in for a swim. 

We enjoyed the sunset at a restaurant on the beach with a glass of wine and a beer followed by calamari on rocket greens.  A long walk home accompanied by an almost full moon.  I could get used to this.

Monday, August 29, 2016

Dugi Rat, Croatia: 15 August 2016
Day 46


On the road by 7:40am to start our 12 hour drive to Split.  Today we saw Poland, Czech Republic, Austria and Slovenia on our way into Croatia.  We experienced significant delays by a wreck early on in Austria.  We tripped across agility dog trials  somewhere in Austria before Wein (Vienna); we stopped just to take a break.  We ran into rainy-nasty weather as we passed over the Alps. I slept through reportedly spectacular lightening but I saw plenty of evidence of fields flooding when I did sit up and pay attention.


When we arrived in Dugi Rat it was close to 10pm.  Stipe, our host at our AirBnB met us to direct us to the flat.  He and his family live on the top floor and his parents live on the beach side of the property.  We'll be in a new unit that has been available only about one month.  With five separate units of varying sizes, they can have up to thirty guests at one time.  We got most of our treasures out of the car before we sat down with Stipe for a welcome beverage.  His father makes a local brew (Orahovica) that was similar to the Italian Nocino made from green walnuts but this one did seem to pack an extra punch.  We talked for an hour or so before Justin and I headed to the beach for a moonlight stroll.  I didn't want to wait one more minute to see the water... to hear the waves lapping...to dip my toe...to BE at the beach.

 It was warm when we were in Paris and warm one day in Wales, but the thermometer pegged out at 86'F as we entered Croatia.  Let' see what tomorrow holds...


Krakow, Poland: 14 August 2016
Day 45


Yogurt and granola for breakfast was accompanied by a meaningful chat about faith and the existence of God.  Justin and I have quite different views here just as we do in regard to politics.  We don't get into the nitty-gritty too often so this morning was particularly poignant.  Perhaps we were both already introspective given that we were headed to Auschwitz.  While we waited in line (for two hours) we got the free tickets to enter without a guide at 4:20pm.  By the time we got to the front ot of the line, the 4:20 option was the best available, so we sat under a crabapple tree and read and napped.  It was a quiet ride home.

Dinner at Rubenstein's Restaurant back in our neighborhood.  This dinner wasn't just good, it was great.  Justin started with scallops on fennel purée topped with grapefruit segments and followed with roasted duck in a black currant sauce served on a spinach and potato purée.  I started with a goat cheese cake on spinach sauce with chanterelles and followed with duck ravioli.  

 All in all, a strange day.  I don't think I took one single picture today.  I can't imagine looking at photos from Auschwitz on Apple TV and having them prompt memories of a fabulous day on vacation.  No, I'll rely on my memories rather than photos.
Krakow, Poland: 13 August 2016
Day 44


Justin had read about "white castles" outside of Kraków and that was on the list for today.  We drove outside of town in our search.  We found our way to Pieskowaskala Castle which is a branch of the Wawel Royal Castle in the old town.  The had a permanent exhibition of European art from the Middle Ages to mid 20th century that was most impressive.  They were very concerned about the preservation of the floors so in a pseudo-Japanese style, we were given slippers to put on over our shoes.  It was a bit cumbersome as you went from one set of rooms to the next you had to remove the slippers.  All in all, it was fine.  


Justin took advantage of the opportunity to have a real Polska kielbasa (sausage) at lunch.  We ate at a roadside stand; Justin had sausage, a sour kraut soup and I had goulash soup.  The traffic was consistent so the proprietors are probably doing just fine.

Later back in I town, we drove through the city center and old town before we headed back to the Jewish quarter for dinner.


Krakow, Poland: 12 August 2016
Day 43

On the road to drive to Kraków.  Today's drive was a bit over five hours.  Thankfully the weather was great.  There was lots of construction on the roads once we got outside of Prague and that slowed our progress significantly.  While I drove Justin read articles from International Living and from Money magazine.  Justin started reading aloud to me long ago and on this trip we've been working our way through old copies of these now well-travelled magazines.  Later, while Justin drove I started reading aloud Steven Hawking's "A Brief History of Time."  This will take a day or two...
 
Our AirBnB home for the next three nights is a third floor walk up right off the Vistula River.  After settling in we started on a grocery store run (we need laundry detergent) and found a sushi restaurant.  A bit more wandering around and we saw that we are right in the heart of the Jewish quarter.  Menus looked ever so inviting!  We settled on Israeli fare for dinner; the sign on the wall reads "make hummus not war."  Perfect ending to a banner good day.
 

 


 
 
 
 
 
 




Prague, Czech Republic: 11 August 2016
Day 42
 


The Basilica from inside the castle grounds
Back to Richard's Kitchen for lunch.  I really like to go new and different places to eat even when we are at home, but you just can't beat Richard's.  Today I had an arugula , quinoa, plum and feta salad that was scrumptious.  I'll want to repeat this one when I cook again...and that won't be this week. 

We took Gemma home and told her to take a nap while we headed to Prague Castle.  Gemma certainly has the life.  She hasn't had to stay at home or in the car very much at all this trip but today was not for little dogs.  We were disappointed when we learned that the castle was closing early today so we bolted through the Basilica, the national buildings and the grounds before we learned that the reason for the early closure was a concert in the Basilica.  A string quintet with one vocalist provided an awe-inspiring intimate performance with some favorites for both of us.  After a bit more wandering around the castle grounds and a cab driver who didn't know his city very well at all, we found our way along the river to a dinner cruise with a pianist.  Water opportunities always call to Justin and me so we signed up and boarded.  This particular sailing had less than twenty passengers and the food and service was great.  We were able to go outside in between courses and take in all the sights of the city at dusk and later in the evening.  I told Justin this could count as my birthday dinner... and I am STILL not back at work! 
The castle from the river

Sunday, August 28, 2016

Prague, Czech Republic: 10 August 2106
Day 41


What a fabulous day!  After a leisurely start, we headed first to Richard's Kitchen for luncheon and then on to explore.  Our AirBnB is in new town, so named in the 14th century.  We explored and strolled through the streets and along the river getting a feel for the town.  We meandered and gawked.  Justin said early in the afternoon that he thought he liked Prague more than Budapest and in just a few hours he amended that to say that he even liked Prague more than Porto.  The buildings are very ornate and exquisite.  The city was never destroyed like so many we saw in Germany; one can see why the town is referred to as the heart of Europe.  There are spires in every direction as well as awe inspiring vistas.  I could easily spend 90 days here one summer or spring.  Mid-afternoon we had a traditional snack "trdlenik."  Made from a sweet yeast dough, thinly rolled tubes are wrapped around a cylinder and grilled, then rolled in cinnamon and sugar.  We watched two ladies make several dozen while waiting in line; I had an original one while Justin had one filled with chocolate cream.  Oh, my goodness. 



We walked along the Vltava River trying to take it all in as we got to the Charles Bridge.  There were lots of vendors but nothing distracted from the touristy yet beautiful setting.  On the opposite bank, we wandered through more open green spaces and found our way to the John Lennon Wall rather by accident. 












We had heard about the astronomical clock in old town and we made it there just in time to see the 9pm march of the Apostles.  Not so much compared to the glockenspiel in Munich, but a very interesting and rather complicated time piece from the 1400s.  Dials included tell not only the time today and the traditional Czech time but also the sign of the zodiac and the month.  After another traditional dinner (Czech board of ham, pork roast and sausage with dumplings and red and white kraut) we walked back to our part of town.  Over 15,000 steps today according to my fit bit.  I'll bet I would not have gotten that many in during a typical work day at the DSO. 
Prague, Czech Republic: 9 August 2016
Day 40


Started the day off with a hearty German breakfast.  I am going to miss this... cheese and meat platter, hard cooked or scrambled eggs, muesli, quark and yogurt, fresh fruit and juices and bro hen!  Ah, the roll selection complemented with jams, jellies and Nutella.  Yum!

We took a bit of a detour to go through Pilsen on the way to Prague.  We always have time for a tribute to beer, yes?  Could I spend a couple of months here one summer?  Sure.  Very quaint, old city.  Lots of growth and refurbishing that was quite different from the looks in Leipzig when I was there a few years ago.

 Pulling into Prague we headed straight to our AirBnB.  It was before 2pm check-in time so we strolled around our neighborhood a bit and took time for an early afternoon beverage at Richard's Kitchen.  We will certainly want to go back there during our visit.

We checked into our basement flat and took time to get settled before we went back out to explore.  We found a variety of restaurants and the local Tesco grocery store in our neighborhood.  The local liquor stores, "Alcohole," are on every corner.  No shortage or liquid enjoyment here.  We will head to "old town" tomorrow but for this, our first evening in Prague, we stayed in our local Nove Mesto (new town) area and went for traditional Czech fare with our dinner choices.  After a starter of herring, Justin had boar with special dumplings and I had pork with red cabbage and dumplings.  No beverages with dinner, but our appetizer and two entrees set the bank back about $12.00... Yes, really.


Nuremberg, Germany: 8 August 2016
Day 39
 

We left Mons this morning, or actually Jurbise on the 6:43am train with the goal of getting into Kaiserslautern about 12:30pm.  We missed our first connection in Brussels-midi... How can one be expected to buy a ticket and catch a train in 7 minutes when you don't know your way around the station?  Things went smoothly in Koln but we missed another connection in Mannheim to get into K-town.  Despite the adventure, we got into Kaiserslautern and collected our rental car and were at Susan and Dave's by 5pm.  Happy hour anyone?  Well, where's the water?  I had planned to do laundry.  And of course, there's always that middle of the night trip down the hall.  Justin putzed around in the kellar to find the connections, but was not successful.  With no water, we called Matt to tell him we couldn't meet for dinner (but we certainly will when we return in September.  Matt doesn't even have orders yet so he and his family will still be in town when we get back.) and we got back on the road.  What I thought would be an interim day, in actuality, turned out to be day number one of the next loop.  We got past Nuremberg before we reached our hotel... Gasthjof Hotel Zum Schwarzen Baren.  We were dog tired; the owners were quite happy to see us at midnight so they too could go to bed.

 

 
Mons, Belgium: 7 August 2016
Day 38


What a day!  Lorayne was supposed to read at church this morning, but Eileen's car was parked behind her's and she thought she couldn't get out.  She didn't know the keys were in the car.  What's a girl to do?  She started preparing our eggs Benedict breakfast.  Justin and I popped the cork on the bottle of Taittinger champagne we bought in Reims at Memorial Day.  Purchased for the sole purpose of celebrating our retirement, it was perfect to be able to celebrate with Lorayne.  Ken and Eileen joined us shortly for a long, liquid     brunch.  ( Funny how Lorayne and I have tended to do this over the years.)

We tried to pack and sort through our "stuff" during the afternoon.  (This task seemed especially difficult as we just needed to talk and then we needed to take a nap.)  We would be travelling by train from Mons to Kaiserslautern which meant we needed to consolidate and lessen the load.  Justin did a bit of grooming with Gemma before we headed back to Ken and Eileen's for a dinner of Chile Verde.  I need to get Ken's recipe!


Mons, Belgium: 6 August 2016
Day 37


Justin, Eileen and I had breakfast on the street in a little Parisienne cafe and then on to the D'Orsay.  Along the way, Eileen pointed out the most narrow house in Paris at 22 Rue Saint Severin.  It is home to a pizza shop now but you can easily see how, in days gone by, it was important to take advantage of all available space. 

 We then made a stop at Sainte-Chapelle.  Eileen saw that there were no lines so we headed there quickly...fabulous stained glass makes up almost all the walls in this church that was built in 1226 to 1270.  Initially designed to hold holy relics, the small building is actually two chapels on top of each other.  The spectacular stained glass survived the French Revolution surprisingly.  Eileen is used to being the leader when she goes to Paris with friends.  It was easy for me to take a back seat and follow along like a lemming just absorbing all the sights in the city.

Then on to the D'Orsay.  Again, we were surprised to see no lines.  Later we learned that tourism is down 70% in Paris now.  That meant fewer crowds as we roamed through the halls in the museum.  Justin is all about the Impressionists.  The collection in the Chicago Art institute is second only to the D'Orsay.  He was quite pleased to be able to jump in with both feet and soak up all the art.  And here we got to see Starry Starry Night up close and personally!  We were able to revisit favorites of Monet and Callibotte from earlier this summer as well as VanGough from Amsterdam.  Justin and I are both taken with Degas and we contemplated buying a print of "Dancers in Blue".  We have so much art work and not enough walls, but we don't have much that we have bought together.  We passed on the urge knowing that the purchase would remain in a tube in storage for the next several years.  We all could have spent more time so we will plan to return to the galleries at a later date. 




Buckwheat Crepes for lunch at another cafe.  Justin and Eileen had scallops with vegetables and a magnificent sauce.  My crepe had potatoes, cheese and bacon with slow-cooked onions.  We ended our respite with a Crepes Suzette and thoughts of childhood when Beverly made these at home.

Back in Mons, Lorayne was disappointed that she didn't get to see the AiChangs but Christina had called to chat so she was able to reconnect via telephone.  Another liquid evening for the five of us...
Paris, France: 5 August 2016
Day 36

Before school was out, we asked Lorayne if she wanted to go to Paris and Versailles with us and she said yes.  Knowing that she had just returned from the states, I wasn't surprised when she didn't really want to go.  Jet lag won this round.  Fortunately, Eileen was willing and eager to make the road trip.  Eileen came to pick us up at 9am.  We went first to Jurbise to see about our train tickets for Monday but we had no luck buying international tickets.  I need to try on line or to call them.  It was about a three hour drive to Versailles. 



Lorayne and Eileen knew from Facebook that the  AiChangs had been in Paris last week and initially they thought they were already gone.  After an exchange of emails and phone numbers, Brian and I were texting as we pulled into our parking space in Versailles.  There was a bit of confusion as they too were in Versailles.  Christina cleared it all up when she said "we are about four minutes from you."  Of all the gin joints in all the world ... How crazy was that that we were able to meet for lunch?  We could have planned for months and not done any better.  Brian and Christina treated Justin, Eileen and me to lunch at their hotel, the Grand Triton Waldorf Astoria located at the Queens Gate into the gardens at Versailles.  What good fortune to be able to meet and spend time together!  Kathlyn was there too; the crew was headed to pick up Alex from soccer camp right after lunch.  Brian told Justin that we really need to plan to get to Mumbai this winter but I doubt we will fit it in just yet. 

After lunch, at Versailles we went first to Marie Antoinette's hamlet and then, through the gardens to Versailles Palace.  The extensive gardens are grandiose and extensive!  I was a bit disappointed that the water fountains were not going.  And, by the way, the petite palace wasn't petite at all.

We got on the road to Paris, and when checking into our hotel we found that we didn't have reservations.  Yes, I had booked us at Hotel Des Carmes in Rouen not in Paris.  Fortunately, our quaint little hotel in the Latin Quarter had rooms available and the worst thing that happened was that I couldn't get a refund for the Rouen rooms.  Of all the reservations I've made lately for hotels, AirBnB, museums, theater, etc... If this is the only mistake I make, we are doing fine.

After receiving a recommendation from local German/ American expats we had dinner at La Porte Pot. Delicious duck! You really can expect nothing less in Paris, right?  On the way home we saw several hundred roller bladers.  With police escorts the skaters proceed through the 5th arrondissement every Friday evening. We were again simply at the right place at the right time.
Mons, Belgium: 4 August 2016
Day 35


Lorayne got home a bit after 11am after her flight being delayed in Chicago.  We were still asleep, but we got up and at it pretty quickly.  Lorayne's suitcases, mail and boxes she had mailed to herself from the states mixed with our laundry and unpacking the car means we had pretty much taken over the front part of the house.  Our time chatting and catching up was so enjoyable.  I had to fess up with Lorayne to tell her I had backed into a stone wall and scratched the bumper.  We put about 5,000 miles on the car in the past month.  We were so, so fortunate to be able to use her car.
 

We had dinner at Ken and Eileen's.  It was nice to eat home cooked food!  Georgia, Zeke and Gemma had a great time running and chasing each other in the backyard while we had steaks, baked potatoes and grilled asparagus.  After last night, it was a calm evening.  We headed home by nine; we'd done a good job of keeping Lorayne awake after her flight.


Mons, Belgium: 3 August 2016
Day 34

We started the day with breakfast in our hotel before we left Gemma in the car to go to The VanGough Museum.  We jumped back on the local tram and headed to the museum district.  Walking through the Rijks Museum we  listened to buskers performing the Summer portion of Vivaldi's Four Seasons.  We waited in line for an hour and a half even though we had tickets already but it was well worth it.  We started this portion of our trip with water lilies and we are ending with sunflowers.

We bought sushi obento on our way back to the car -- eager to get on the road we headed out of Amsterdam to travel back to Mons.  It was raining cats and dogs which slowered us down a bit but we pulled into Mons a bit after 8pm.  We called Ken and Eileen to bring Zeke home.  They arrived with wine in hand and it was a very late evening.  The last time we saw Ken and Eileen was Christmas two years ago and I hadn't really spent any time with them since I left Japan.  We did our best to make up for lost time.  Lorayne wasn't with us in person, but I can hear her repeating the J
immy Buffet line about the best parties were at my house when I wasn't even there.



Amsterdam, Netherlands: 2 August 2016
Day 33


Started the day with breakfast in our hotel and then headed toward the city to see the sights.  After a false start and a quick trip back to get Justin's phone, we navigated the waters to secure a 48 hour pass that was good on trains, trams and city busses.  We then boarded a canal cruise on a small boat that could go into the smaller canals and out to the Amstel river.  Our boat was a sailing saloon vessel that was over a hundred years old.  This particular boat and over a hundred others like it, were sunk during the occupation and then refurbished after the liberation.  Now the boat has glossy wooden appointments, is electric powered and way too cool.  Captain Eddie led us and another couple around the town.  Gemma got to go too!  He pointed out lots of sights in the 17th century Canal Ring and we were not limited to the audio selection that was designed for a larger group.



After the cruise, we headed to the red-light district.  Just roaming around was a hoot.  One sign we saw was particularly memorable "Live Porn Show -- Hospital -- Bar". I don't even want to know.  We did stop into a coffee shop where Justin ordered euphoria without paranoia.  Saving the muffins for later, we started our progressive dinner.  Three separate stops: garlic-grilled shrimp for our first course, pad thai for the entrée and ice cream on the way home.


Amsterdam, Netherlands: 1 August 2016
Day 32

First stop today was Avebury to see stones.  This area, though not as well known, is much larger than Stonehenge.  The stones are not as intact since many were torn down (some by the church because it was an evil location and others by locals who used the materials to build homes).  We got there about 7:00am and other than the sheep, we were the only ones there.  We got to walk all around the stones and the entire area since it isn't blocked off at all.  Next on to Stonehenge.  We were fortunate in that we got there before many of the tour busses.  We didn't have enough time in the museum but how can you talk about time when you are around stones that have been in place for more than 4500 years?  We met a fun couple from Sonoma.  Like us, recently retired and like we want to do, they were on the road for nine months.  They too are traveling with a four-legged furry friend.



On the road to head to Calais for our ferry to Dunkirk.  We were scheduled for a 4pm departure but we were able to go at 2pm.  The three hour drive into Amsterdam went without a hitch.  We started the morning in England, took the ferry into France and then drove through Belgium to get into the Netherlands.  Four countries in one day!

Sunday, August 21, 2016

Swindon, England:  31 July 2016
Day 31

We headed out of Cobweb Cottage by about 9am and headed toward Stratford-upon-Avon.  We didn't get very far because we got totally sidetracked in the precious town of Llangollen.  Along the River Dee, this is the cutest little resort town.  Lots of shops were opened on this Sunday and dogs were allowed almost everywhere.  We walked along the river and visited a few shops before we had a fabulous turkey, dressing and cranberry sauce sandwich.  Later, we hit the road for Stratford-upon-Avon where it was all about the bard.  Taking advantage of being Will's birthplace and being buried here too, the quite touristy town was the perfect backdrop for a boat ride along the Avon River and a leisurely stroll through a weekend market before we began the business of the day.  Shakespeare's will, usually in the National Archives, was on display this summer in celebration of the 400 year anniversary.  Our timing was perfect as the will is in Stratford-upon-Avon for four more days.  We were able to visit not only the family home where Shakespeare was born, and Halls's Croft, the house where his daughter was born and grew up but also Harvard House, the Elizabethan cottage owned by the benefactors that started Harvard University.  These are incredible, stately homes that offer insight into the times and the way of life for the very rich.   At the end of our tour in the gift shop, we were tempted by "Shakesbear" toys for little ones as well as "Shakesbeer" for those a bit older. 
Into Swindon for the evening -- a quick stop at our hotel as tomorrow will be all about stones!
Garden in the back of Shakespeare's Home

Corwen, Wales: 30 July 2016
Day 30

Our last full day in Wales.  We had an, ok, I'll own it, typically late start after reading Money magazines and lazing around.  We went to a local pub for lunch and to check email before we headed to the Glass Blobbery.  The craftsman was at work making faireys.  Several items might have been tempting but traveling with glass is not where I need to head right now.  On our drive back home we passed over a very old and very narrow stone bridge.  Sometimes when I see things like this (with no right-of-way sings or signals) or roads with no shoulders, I think of how this would be in the States.  I often just shake my head.  Back in Cobweb Cottage, we had a glass of wine in our garden after a nice long walk in the neighboring farms.  We will hit the road in the morning to head back to England and begin the next leg of the journey.


Corwen, Wales:29 July 2016
Day 29


I am getting spoiled by French-press coffee.  Helen, our host left home-made scones for us along with her own preserves and peanut butter.  The cottage is rather rustic (an old bunk house they converted into an AirBnB) and the grounds are extensive.  The garden looks rather unruly; she has at least squash, onions, cabbage, beans and raspberries.  Helen was gone long before we got up this morning to take extra fruits and vegetables to the local market.
We spent a lazy morning reading and lounging before we headed back to the sheepdog trials.  We sat with Nerys and Queen again.  Queen is a retired working sheep dog who has Parkinson's disease.  Nerys is very knowledgeable and helped to make sure we understood the proceedings.  The five top handlers are selected each day and those 15 compete again on Saturday to determine who goes to the International competition.  Realizing that the International event includes only England, Ireland, Scotland and Wales, one must think in terms of the World competition to include a larger scope. 

We stayed after the competition to watch the tug-of-war and the sheep shearing contest.  Going on looks alone Justin and I chose our favorites going in.  Not knowing, I had one fav from each of the three categories of senior, open, and veteran.  My open and my veteran bit the dust early on, but my favorite in the senior category took the grand prize.  These guys can sheer a sheep in right about twenty seconds!  My goodness.  Justin asked me if I thought he had three heads when he first suggested we add this to our list for this summer.  I told him that yes, in fact, I had thought he was nuts.  As it turned out, this was very interesting and fun.  I am glad we went.  I was reminded of 4H, FFA and fat-stock shows and rodeos.  No jams, jellies or pies and not so much about the blue ribbon, but all about sheep, dogs, and the people who work them.


 
Corwen, Wales: 28 July 2016
Day 28

We headed to Northern Wales to Corwen today and to the Welsh National Sheepdog Trials.  We were on the road just a bit after 10am and on our way for the 3 and a half or so hour trip.
We stopped along the way to have a meat pie.  Justin chose lamb and mint and I chose vegetable curry.  The little brown paper bag was quite greasy by the time we were eating, but the savory treats were delicious.  After more spectacular scenery and as we got closer to Corwen, we began to see signs for the dog trials, headed that way, and stopped to watch for a few hours.  We met Nerys, a nice local lady who took time to explain some of the nuances of this dog world.  We should see her tomorrow too.  You'd never know this lady was in her seventies; she has been coming to these dog shows for over 60 years.  Gemma was very interested in all the other furry creatures and on her best behavior.

We arrived at Cobweb Cottage about 7:30 pm or so.  Our home for the next three days is an AirBnB that used to be an old bunk house now turned into a self-contained unit.  I'll be eager to explore the grounds in the daylight.  The property is on an unnamed road so we were dependent on latitude and longitude coordinates to get us here.  After giving us the welcome tour, Helen, our host, suggested we go to "The Goat" when we asked for a recommendation for dinner.  Only two miles away, it took us about twenty minutes to get there, only to learn they don't serve dinner on Thursdays.  We headed next to Bala and thankfully found a restaurant open as it was now quite late.  The nachos were calling to me as I need a Tex-Mex fix.  Instead, I opted for a local treat of leek-homity pie --  a potato, leek, honey pie in a hearty whole wheat crust.  Along with a side salad, it hit the spot.  Justin is quite enjoying the local ales and as much as he wanted another with his chicken Caesar salad entree he knew he had a beast of a drive home through more haystacks and down a newly graveled, quite steep path back to our cottage.
 


Neyland, Pembrokeshire, Wales: 27 July 2016 
Day 27


Morning routine of checking email and working on blog. A bit more exciting than the laundry chores from yesterday.  Justin and I started watching Bloodline and got caught up in that right away.


 We took a boat trip this afternoon that was advertised as a Sea Safari.  Our boat left from Marloes beach and went out around Skomer and Skokholm islands.  We got suited up in waterproof suits.  They were large and bulky, but I was glad to have the extra layer for warmth.  We saw thousands of sea birds as we bounced around the bay.  We saw razorbills, gannets, guillemots, shearwaters and hundreds of puffins.  What precious little penguins.  We saw a few porpoises and several seals basking on the rocks.  The view of the shoreline from the boat offered fabulous perspective totally different from we've seen that last few days.  An added bonus was that it was toward the end of the day when the light in the sky was just spectacular.  There were a few kids on our boat and when the captain asked us how fast we wanted to go, they exclaimed "very fast".  We were treated to a bit of hot-dogging toward the end of our safari.  This sure was more fun on this boat than the sand dune bashing we did when we were in Dubai. 

Got my LES today ...zeroes... All zeroes!
Neyland, Pembrokeshire, Wales: 25 July 2016
Day 25

We headed to Pembroke Castle today.  Building on the site began  in 1093; the castle was later the birthplace of Henry VII.  Like Edinburgh Castle the buildings are perched right on top of rock. Many of the homes in the town are built in the same manner.  Justin and I were most impressed with the multi-storied round tower as this type of architecture was not common for the time.  The museum curator has added a large map of Wales within the castle grounds as well as life sized characters throughout the castle who tell visitors of their work and their daily lives.  I am pleased to see more interactive opportunities for kids of all ages.  We stopped for dinner on the way home as we are winding down our time in Wales.


Neyland, Pembrokeshire, Wales: 24 July 2016
Day 24


Justin still feels like crap and he is sleeping a lot.  We watched a lot of tv the last couple of days and I am close to finishing my book -- How to be an American Housewife.  The book is written from the perspective of a newly married Japanese girl making sense of it all in San Diego with her GI husband right after Nagasaki.  Apparently there really was a "how to" guide for Japanese women... my goodness. 
We had a slow, fabulous day.  I think I'll need to have a few more days just like this before I get bored.  When Mimi and I were catching up, she told me about a website she had investigated when flex jobs were posted.  I spent some time browsing and thinking what I might like to do.  I feel compelled to do something, but what?  Teach on line?  College?  Secondary?  Teacher prep?  I could be a reader for tests too.  On the other hand, do I want to do anything at all?  I need to keep my options open and I need to breathe.
I
spent time catching up on paperwork; paid bills and continued my war with USPS.  I am enjoying working on our blog but I am still challenged with photos.  I want to be able to catalogue our travels before I forget where we've been.
As expected, many of our days in South Wales have been cool, overcast and drizzly ... The occasional sunshine has been a bonus.
More often Justin and I are talking about what to do this winter.  Cuba?  Belize?  Mexico?  How many United miles do I have and how far can we go with those? What about our beloved mini poodle, Gemma?
Neyland, Pembrokeshire, Wales: 21 July 2016
Day 21

Mimi left today.  Justin and I took her to the train station in Milford Haven and then we headed to the grocery store.  I dreaded going to the grocery store when I taught home ec.  I had to keep track of the pantry at school separate from the pantry at home.  More recently, Justin has been doing all the shopping and I have totally been able to avoid the commissary all together.  Now, just when Justin thinks this process will go quickly, I want to lollygag and take time going up and down each aisle looking at all the different products.  I am finding this especially interesting in different countries.  So many new options!

I took some time today to look at the map not just of this trip, but all the traveling we've been able to do in the last two years.  That prompted me to start a list of countries.  In the last three years, Justin and I have been in the US and we've been to Japan, Germany, France, England, Scotland, Wales, Spain, Portugal, Belgium, Luxembourg, the Netherlands, Italy (and Vatican City), Greece, Austria, Switzerland, Poland, Hungary, and Morocco.  Later this summer we will add at least Czech Republic and Croatia.  We are so, so fortunate!!!
Neyland, Pembrokeshire, Wales: 20 July 2016
Day 20

You know those rainy, nasty cold days when you just want to stay in bed?  Well, that's what we did today... not much.  Mimi worked to schedule travel and lodging for her next trips, I worked on our blog and Justin worked on feeling better.  And that was enough work for all of us.
We went to The Bar for dinner.  The Bar is a local restaurant where reservations are quite coveted.  We had great food and I got a copy of their menu.  I'm looking forward to trying my own rendition of the Broccoli-Stilton soup.

View from our kitchen in Neyland out onto a rainy, gloomy bay