Thursday, 20 November 2025: Ho Chi Minh City

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I lost Tuesday since we were flying and I lost Wednesday because I have a cold.  Justin went out to explore and I was totally jealous and miserable while I assumed the fetal position snuggled down in my bed.  Our arrival at our hotel last night was super creepy.  It was dark, it was late and we were crazy tired.  When the tai driver told us to get out and to walk about a hundred yards down a dark, back alley, we were not pleased.  We asked him to go around, the block...to find another way.  What were we thinking?  Did I not remember.  Once in the daylight all was well.  We will come back here to Ben Thahn Retreats Hotel.   I did venture out in the late afternoon to get a big bowl of noodles and stop by the pharmacy.  Today I was ready to embrace Saigon.

At breakfast at our hotel, we learned that today is Teachers’ Day.  No, it’s not a national holiday but it is a day dedicated to saying thank you to teachers.  Flowers and gifts are common as is respect and gratitude.  How many times have I stood on that stage and my hand ached from shaking hands to honor student successes?  And, today, I get to take pictures and smile.  And, go have a Vietnamese coffee.  

Justin was interested in the WaterBus Taxi so we started walking that direction.  What might have been a 25-30 minute walk for some was several hours for us.  We found some wonderful distractions and were just gawking at times.  

Ben Thanh market receives more than 10,000 visitors each day.  The market is in one the oldest surviving structures in the city of over 14 million.  Justin said it was like the souks, but organized.  Justin bought some shoes; I bought some water — it is stinking hot!

By the time we found our way to the water taxi, it was too long to wait until the next one so we taxied back to our hotel for a break and signed up for a walking street food tour in the evening.  

But first, pedi for Justin and a mani for me.  The lady came to our hotel lobby! What a hoot.  Now I know why all the nail techs at home are Vietnamese, their shops are literally on every corner here.  Massages too… that’s next. 

“Ted” met us at our hotel and we were on our way for our street food tour. There are basically two camps in the street food world — some do and some don’t. Justin and I say yes, please. 

Our first stop was for Chuối nếp nướng (Banana sticky rice).  We’d started out in District 1 and wound our way across streets and through alleys into District 3 for our first stop.  This particular vendor has had his business for more than 20 years. Justin and I split an order of the sticky sweetness topped with sesame seeds.  Cost: 28,000VND which is equivalent to about $1.

Second stop, also in District 3: Bò kho/ Beef stew (30,000VND/$1.15). This dish was like a beef pho. Justin and I each had a small serving; neither of us finished it since we we’d only just started our tour.  

Ted explained that in the south, dishes are more sweet and rich. In the middle of the country, dishes are more spicy and in the north, dishes are bland with lots of vegetables.  Jasmine tea was served as well. 

Stop 3: Bánh cuốn/ Steam rice roll filled with mushrooms and pork and topped with sprouts, Thai basil and fried scallions.  This was one of our favs.  

 

Justin and I are already slowing down and splitting a portion. Even though we are walking in between each “course” we don’t have time to get hungry again. 

We walked through (too quickly, I would have liked to have meandered more) the flower market (Ho Thi Ky Market) and into more food stalls to our next stop.

 

Stop 4: Khoai lang kén/ Sweet Potato puffs with apricot dust and…

Offering 5: Bánh tráng nướng/Vietnamese pizza: egg, corn, shrimp, chicken floss, scallions on a crispy rice cracker and …

Offering 6: a crispy (styrofoam) rice cracker glazed with coconut milk

#7: Our beverage choice at this stop included bia (beer), sugar cane drink, and passion fruit drink. Justin opted for beer (he’d had one earlier in the afternoon and said it had tasted like … another.)

Ted taught us the traditional cheers in Vietnam.  Mo- hi- ba-yo. One-two-three-yo!  After hoisting ourselves up from quite low stools, we were on our way. 

Stop 8: Bánh mì / Vietnamese baguette. We were now in District 10, to enjoy a traditional baguette with pate, minced pork, sausages, cucumber, lettuce …kinda like a sub sandwich. Me? It’s all about the bread!  

Back in District 3, we walked by housing that was originally American barracks. Now, a family of 3 or 4 lives in square footage equivalent to my hotel room. Eleven blocks of these structures have been “renovated.”  The area has turned into a vibrant food hub alongside the apartments and shops. 

Stop 9: Bánh xèo/Vietnamese savory pancake. Ted explained all the different greens and sprouts and then showed us how to roll our shrimp or pork belly pancake (rice flour and turmeric) in rice paper before dipping in fish sauce to enjoy. 

Stop 10: Our choices for dessert were either flan or Chè mè đen / Vietnamese black seaseme sweet soup. Both Justin and I chose the sesame soup. Sitting on even lower stools, we enjoyed the dark super sweet delicacy (sesame seeds are ground and then mixed with coconut milk).  

We waddled back to our hotel, bid farewell to Ted.  Time for bed.

Vietnamese chocolate -- Yummy!