Monday, 29 December 2025: into Laos

We started our day with a lovely breakfast that featured the best bread I’ve had in weeks.  She said a local bakery made it.. if only I had time to make a bakery run…

Now, to cross out of Thailand and into Laos.   Justin has called it “… another culture, currency and cuisine.”

We met a couple at border control who looked as lost and confused as we did. After introducing ourselves, we learned they were on the same slow boat we were. Whether we were right or wrong, in the right place or not, we were sticking together. 

Fret.  Get your passport stamped to leave Thailand. Board the bus that goes across the river into Laos. Fret. Get off the bus.  Fill out the paperwork to get your visa-on-arrival. Fret. Wait in line. Fret. “Ok, you are clear to go.”  And, all this with a representative from the cruise company to assist with paperwork. I guess there was no extra charge for the fretting.  The young couple with us were also fretting about getting cash from the ATM since their eSIM wasn’t cooperating in Laos.  At least we didn’t have that challenge.  

Day one of our Mekong Lovers Cruise: We departed about 10am. It’s only 143 km to Pakbeng and we should arrive before 5pm tonight. 

There were about twenty people on our boat including us and the couple from New Zealand we met in line at immigrations. Our twenty compared to the 150 or so who are on the public boat. Sure, we paid significantly more than the $25 they paid — they needed to pack lunch, snacks and water (we have that available throughout, a hot lunch prepared and served buffet style, and three stops planned (one at a local village, one at a distillery, and one at a cave with, you guessed it, Buddha’s). 

      

This part of the river is totally different from the delta. 

During the course of the day we saw goats, chickens, cows and water buffalo at least.  We also saw bananas and corn were among the cultivated crops.  We were told that wild herbs and mushrooms are plentiful.

Magnificent scenery.  Jaw dropping.  Astounding.  

Honestly, lunch was only ok.  So far, Laotian food is not at the top of the list.  The jury could be swayed, we will see.

   

More beautiful views were presented at every turn of the river.  

In the afternoon we visited a village. The climb up from the river was super steep and it threatened to get the best of me. 

About 5pm we “docked” in Pakbeng. “Dock” in this case means a stick in the sand and they tie the boat to the stick. This is a big boat for that simple of a system. Given the water level changes of the river, I can see why nothing permanent would work. 

We checked into our hotel, Mekong Riverside Lodge, and were directed to Room #1. That might have been a first for me.   This room is rustic; fine for two nights. The shared balcony with phenomenal view of the river made it all ok.

Dinner across the street at the restaurant owned by the hotel was forgettable.  The owner is Indian.  He’s been here 35+ years and though the naan was great, I think he might have forgotten some of the family recipes.

Sleep was welcomed — even under the mosquito netting.