We finished packing before breakfast and then, we were on the bus to Hoi An. This is the first leg we’ve taken on a bus and one of the few times we’ve chosen an organized group tour. And now I remember why.
With our newest 30 friends, we set out. This particular journey had four stops identified: Thuy Thanh Toan tile-roofed bridge, an oyster farm, an old look out point, Hai Van Quan, and Marble Mountains and Cave. Justin said it was almost as if the guide had pulled up to Mount Fuji and said, “ok, you have 15 minutes.”
One of the most disheartening things we saw on this leg of our journey was south of DeNang where the wheels of progress are ruining the pristine beaches. Bulldozers are busily destroying beach access. Our guide explained that Vinfast is behind the money. He told of communities of families being pushed out with little reparations. Oh, but we will have more condos and venues for money-making. After our experiences in CatBa, we don’t have much confidence for the future.
We arrived in Hoi An around 4pm. Because there are many areas of the old town where vehicles, especially big ass busses are not allowed, the driver selects common drop off points. We got off at a stop with about 6 other travelers. We were told our hotel was 150 meters walk; GPS indicated it was really double that. And it is all ok. We checked in to the Hoi An River Suites Hotel. This was probably the second hotel I booked for the entire trip. I did a good job on this one — in the Old Town, but on the quiet side overlooking a canal. We got settled before heading out to explore.
We crossed the bridge to get on the island in the center of the Thu Bon River and into old town proper. Since it is pedestrian only, that’s really nice, but it means also that the hawkers are everywhere in your face aggressive. Uggh!
We got off the main road and landed at a more local restaurant where we shared a table with a guy from Pusan. We ordered oysters grilled with garlic and chili oil and two of the dishes that are unique to this area:
- White Rose dumplings — a delicate, flower-shaped rice paper stuffed with spiced shrimp or pork. Served with sweet ‘n sour fish sauce and crispy shallots. They say these are only made by one family and they provide them all over the town.
- Chicken rice. Probably poached chicken, rice, fresh herbs, fried shallots, chili satay sauce, chicken broth, and a variety of local vegetables. I can’t honestly say why this dish is iconic. Mine was enhanced with the chili/ garlic flavored oil from the oysters as well as some fish sauce. I don’t need this again.
We found probably the best ice cream we’ve had on the entire trip this evening at Boulevard Gelato and Coffee. We will go back!
And, more importantly, did we find the venue for Justin’s birthday dinner?
Chau kitchen and bar? Perhaps.
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