Saturday, February 28, 2026

Monday, 2 February 2026: Hoi An

Food, massages, hair cuts (and color for me).  Walking, exploring, taking it all in. Our days have been slow but isn’t that the whole purpose behind “slow travel”. 

By definition, slow travel is “a mindful approach to tourism that prioritizes quality, immersion, and connection over rushing through a checklist of attractions.”  I’d say we've earned that merit badge for most of our trip. Justin always chooses an EV if he can — that’s just who he is. We’ve taken cars, trains and busses instead of flying a few legs. We’ve certainly done our part to support the local economy!  Here in Hoi A specifically, we’ve engaged with the community to be able to experience the culture a bit more deeply. 


I was successful with getting my hair colored in Thailand so I was willing to try here as well.  When I told the receptionist what I wanted, she asked me to take a seat and wait, the color specialist would come to consult with me.  Ok.  No language problem here!  An hour or so later I was experiencing a Vietnamese hair wash.  How did I not know about this?  I will definitely need to have this experience again and quite soon.  Shampoo; head massage; herbal ingredients; conditioning; face, neck and shoulder massage; deep relaxation…bliss.  And, my hair looks great!



Hoi An has more than 300 structures that are designated as world heritage sites.  There are bridges, traditional wooden houses, temples, communal houses, museums, family chapels, and more. The tourism industry in this former major port city (15-19th centuries) has it down to a science: you buy a ticket to go see 5 sites.  You pick from about twenty and the money goes back to refurbishing.  The have rules that you need to go see one state owned site, one family owned site and one museum.  The ticket only costs about $5 and many of the sites don’t require a ticket at all.  Just taking in the sites, sounds, and smells leaves one gawking.  The influences from the Chinese, Japanese, and French combined with that of the Vietnamese create a melting pot in architecture, cuisine and culture.  

    








































This stop in Hoi An was one of the first anchors we set in this trip way back when we started planning in June or July.  Hoi An celebrates a lantern festival on the 14th day of each lunar month. This month, it was 2 February.  Even though the moon was full, it was cloudy and drizzly and the lantern festival was really a bust.  Thankfully, Justin and I had enjoyed the decorated boats the nights leading up to the actual day.


And, we did have a boat ride home from the market one day.   We’d bought another new suitcase and instead of just taking a River boat ride, we asked the nice lady to take us home…a. River taxi.  She said sure.  When we got close to our hotel however, we weren’t really sure how we were to scale the bank of the river to get to the road.  Yes, I had on a dress and sandals.  Yes, we had a suitcase full of new treasures.  Yes, we are stinking old!  Yes, we went up on a set of stairs or rather an old ladder leaned up against the river bank.  Thankfully there were no pictures taken during our extraction.  



Meanwhile, the food here is amazing. Most evenings when we head out we have a plan of where to go for dinner; all too often we get sidetracked and end up at another amazing location.  We did go back to Chau one evening; simply delicious!  Tonight, we had Greek.  Imagine if you will, a combination of Greek/Vietnamese street food. Not too bad!  Too many evenings we had ice cream for dessert.  Our favorite ice cream shop also had pastries; one evening Justin had a chocolate croissant that was worth writing home about.  I stuck with my typical order — one scoop in a cone, flipped to cup.  Don't worry Culvers, I'll be back soon.  


   

Saturday, 31 January 2026: Happy Birthday to Justin

     









Thursday, 29 January 2026: Hue to Hoi An



We finished packing before breakfast and then, we were on the bus to Hoi An. This is the first leg we’ve taken on a bus and one of the few times we’ve chosen an organized group tour. And now I remember why. 

With our newest 30 friends, we set out.  This particular journey had four stops identified: Thuy Thanh Toan tile-roofed bridge, an oyster farm, an old look out point, Hai Van Quan, and Marble Mountains and Cave.  Justin said it was almost as if the guide  had pulled up to Mount Fuji and said, “ok, you have 15 minutes.”   


One of the most disheartening things we saw on this leg of our journey was south of DeNang where the wheels of progress are ruining the pristine  beaches.  Bulldozers are busily destroying beach access.  Our guide explained that Vinfast is behind the money.  He told of communities of families being pushed out with little reparations.  Oh, but we will have more condos and venues for money-making.  After our experiences in CatBa, we don’t have much confidence for the future.  









   






















  


We arrived in Hoi An around 4pm.  Because there are many areas of the old town where vehicles, especially big ass busses are not allowed, the driver selects common drop off points.  We got off at a stop with about 6 other travelers.  We were told our hotel was 150 meters walk; GPS indicated it was really double that.  And it is all ok.  We checked in to the Hoi An River Suites Hotel. This was probably the second hotel I booked for the entire trip. I did a good job on this one — in the Old Town, but on the quiet side overlooking a canal.  We got settled before heading out to explore.  

        

We crossed the bridge to get on the island in the center of the Thu Bon River and into old town proper.  Since it is pedestrian only, that’s really nice, but it means also that the hawkers are everywhere in your face aggressive. Uggh!


We got off the main road and landed at a more local restaurant where we shared a table with a guy from Pusan. We ordered oysters grilled with garlic and chili oil and two of the dishes that are unique to this area:

  • White Rose dumplings — a delicate, flower-shaped rice paper stuffed with spiced shrimp or pork. Served with sweet ‘n sour fish sauce and crispy shallots.  They say these are only made by one family and they provide them all over the town.  
  • Chicken rice.  Probably poached chicken, rice, fresh herbs, fried shallots, chili satay sauce, chicken broth, and a variety of local vegetables.  I can’t honestly say why this dish is iconic.  Mine was enhanced with the chili/ garlic flavored oil from the oysters as well as some fish sauce.  I don’t need this again.  

We found probably the best ice cream we’ve had on the entire trip this evening at Boulevard Gelato and Coffee. We will go back!


      



          












            


And, more importantly, did we find the venue for Justin’s birthday dinner?  

Chau kitchen and bar?  Perhaps.